8 Towns Not to Miss in Puglia, Italy

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Puglia, the region in the heel of Italy’s boot, is dotted with beautiful small towns in shades of white and gold, with unique architecture like the conical trulli of Alberobello and the extravagant Baroque of Lecce.

Rich in churches and palaces, hidden piazzas and winding alleyways, markets and slow food trattorias, Puglia’s towns are a highlight of a visit to the region and reason to entice you away from the endless coastline. In some towns you can even combine visits to cathedrals and castles with dips in the sea just steps from the historic centre.

These are our recommendations of Puglia towns to visit, focused on the two main areas of interest to tourists, the Valle d’Itria and the Salento (there is also the Gargano Peninsula further north but I only recommend it if you have more than 10 days).

A good strategy is to choose a base for each of these areas—masserie or fortified farmhouses that have guest accommodation or Airbnb apartments are a great option—and visit the other towns on day trips. Ostuni (or the nearby countryside) and Lecce are ideal places to base yourself, but you can’t really go wrong.

If you have the time, consider a side trip to spectacular Matera in neighbouring Basilicata. 

Puglia is one of the most beautiful regions of Italy. These 8 diverse Puglian towns are the highlights of the region including Ostuni, Alberobello, Bari, Lecce, Otranto and more. Click through to plan your trip to Puglia.


Bari & The Valle d’Itria

Bari is the main gateway to Puglia (the other airport is at Brindisi further south). The nearby Valle d’Itria, a rustic valley of olive trees, vineyards, and hill towns, is one of the most popular destinations in the region, known for its iconic trulli, circular stone huts found dotted around the countryside.

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Although we flew into Bari on our first trip to Puglia four years ago, we heard that it wasn’t worth visiting so we drove straight from the airport up the coast to the elegant small town Trani. This time we spent a night here and although the newer part of town is fairly nondescript, the atmospheric, maze-like old town is definitely worth a visit.

Bari Vecchia, one of the best Puglia towns to visit in Italy

Bari Vecchia

Bari Vecchia is a walled city crowded on a peninsula jutting into the sea. There was no room for expansion and the resulting overcrowding has meant that life is lived on the streets. As we wandered down the narrow alleyways on our first evening we felt like we were walking through someone’s living room, or well, everyone’s living room. Entire families from grandparents to babies sat outside their homes chatting, playing, napping, while washing dangled from balconies and scooters whizzed past.

It’s not just relaxing and socialising that takes place in the streets. In the mornings they become a pasta factory as women sit at tables outside their homes making the typical Puglian pasta orecchiette. These “little ears” are made by rolling the dough into thin logs, cutting off a chunk with a knife and shaping it by hand—all at an impressively rapid pace. Later in our trip we tried making them ourselves, and it’s not easy.

Women making orecchiette pasta on the streets of Bari, Puglia

Women making orecchiette pasta on the streets of Bari

Orecchiette pasta on Bari street

If you get lost in Bari Vecchia, look down. The black stone pavement was laid to help visiting merchants navigate their way out after market day; the white limestone paving will take you deeper into the maze.

If the characterful tourist-free old town wasn’t enough reason to visit, the focaccia is really really good here, smeared with roasted cherry tomatoes, olives and glistening with local olive oil.

Bari focaccia from Panificio Fiore in Puglia

Where to stay in Bari: We stayed in a rather characterless hotel in the new town. Next time I would choose one of the many B&Bs such as La Muraglia, which has lovely apartments with sea views in the old town. You can find more hotels, B&Bs and apartments in Bari here.
Where to eat in Bari: The amazing focaccia at Panificio Fiore in the old town is perfect for a quick snack or light lunch. Our meal at La Cecchina was delicious, especially the fried caciocavallo cheese and the carrot and zucchini salad.


Alberobello trulli in Puglia, Italy

Alberobello is another town we skipped on our first trip as we heard it was too touristy. And it is, but it’s such a unique and enchanting place (it’s not a UNESCO World Heritage site for nothing) that it’s worth a few hours.

Trulli or conical stone huts are found amongst the olive trees all over the countryside of the Valle d’Itria, but Alberobello is the only entire town of trulli—1500 of them. You half expect to see a hobbit emerge from these stubby homes of whitewashed walls and pointy roofs stacked with grey limestone.

Trulli in AlberobelloOne side of town is full of tourists and souvenir shop trulli, but head across the road to Aia Piccola and you’ll find trulli that are real homes without the crowds. See our trulli photo essay for more information and photos of these unusual dwellings.

Where to stay in Alberobello: Staying in a trullo is a highlight of the Valle d’Itria. We stayed in one at Masseria Ferri near Martina Franca about 25 minutes drive from Alberobello. Our cute trullo stayed wonderfully cool in the summer heat, the family that runs the place is very welcoming, and the food was superb. We preferred staying in the countryside rather than in Alberobello itself, but you can find hotels in Alberobello here such as the highly rated trulli of Tipico Resort
Where to eat in Alberobello: The antipasti at atmospheric cave restaurant Casa Nova were delicious.


Locorotondo, Puglia

Locorotondo is a labyrinth of whitewashed buildings; its quiet streets kept pristine by residents who decorate their balconies and staircases with pink geraniums. There are no major sights, but this means it doesn’t get many visitors, so it’s a delightful place to enjoy a leisurely lunch and stroll the streets.

Where to stay in Locorotondo: We stayed 20 minutes away in a trullo at Masseria Ferri. Locorotondo is a lovely area to stay in and you can find trulli and holiday homes in the area here.
Where to eat in Locorotondo: La Taverna del Duca serves simple but delicious local Slow Food. 


Ostuni archway in Puglia, ItalyOstuni is another maze-like white city on a hilltop just 8km from the Adriatic Sea where you’ll find some of Puglia’s most exclusive resorts. It’s a wonderful town to get lost wandering the alleys, climbing staircases, and dipping under archways; or browse the stalls of local fruit and vegetables at the Saturday market. See our Ostuni post for more photos.

Where to stay in Ostuni:  We absolutely love Masseria Il Frantoio, which is our favourite place to stay not only in Puglia but all of Italy! It’s a magical place on an organic olive farm in the countryside 10 minutes outside Ostuni. The 300-year-old stables and grain mill have been lovingly restored and converted to 12 comfortable guest rooms, and the beautiful grounds and pool are perfect for relaxing. Best of all is the food (which all comes from the farm)—the eight-course tasting menu is incredible. 

If you want to stay in the centre of Ostuni, Biancadamari is a stylish B&B with stunning views of the old town and sea. Or there are many budget apartments in the historic centre like 30 Metri QuadriYou can find more places to stay in Ostuni here.



Where to eat in Ostuni: The elegant Ristorante Porta Nova has wonderful views of the old town and sea and an excellent version of Puglian fava bean puree. Masseria Il Frantoio is open to non-guests for their epic tasting menus. Here are some more Ostuni restaurants to try.

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The Salento

The Salento is a hot, dry peninsula at the southern tip of Puglia. Its geographical isolation has meant that it has developed a strong identity with its own cuisine, traditions and music, influenced by its Greek past. Along with some of Italy’s best beaches, there are many fascinating towns to explore.

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Lecce's baroque cathedral, Puglia

Lecce’s baroque cathedral

Lecce is known for its exuberant Baroque architecture in the golden Leccese stone of the area, its churches lavishly decorated with cherubs, gargoyles and griffins, and delicately carved columns and cornices.

San Matteo church, Lecce

More baroque at San Matteo church

Lecce is one of Puglia’s larger cities but it’s still a walkable size, and it manages to be both lively and relaxed. One of my strongest memories is from after a cooking class with Cooking Experience when we had a long leisurely meal that lasted until nearly midnight.

As we walked back to our B&B, the streets were alive with young people drinking in pavement cafes but also families out for a stroll, groups of friends licking cones of gelato or eating crepes from one of the street stands. The atmosphere was festive and friendly, such a contrast to the negative energy in a British town at pub kicking out time, and we found ourselves thinking, we could live here.

Well, five years later we did! For a month at least. Read our detailed guide to things to do in Lecce for more details on sights, restaurants, transport, day trips and more. 

Lecce, Puglia


Where to stay in Lecce: We stayed at Spiriti Suite B&B, which has modern, elegant suites a 10-minute walk from the historic centre. There are many other gorgeous places to stay in historic buildings such as Dimora Storica Torre Del Parco 1419, a luxurious hotel in a medieval fortress, Palazzo Bignami, a stylish B&B very close to the centre, and Palazzo Gorgoni in the heart of the old town. You can find more hotels and B&Bs in Lecce here
Where to eat in Lecce: See our detailed guide to the best Lecce restaurants from gelato and cheap eats to traditional trattorias. 


Otranto, Puglia

Otranto has a stunning coastal location where you can combine morning visits to churches with an afternoon swimming in the clean, impossibly turquoise sea.

Otranto harbour, PugliaOtranto is just 72 km from Albania and its location has resulted in many invasions, the worst of which was the Turkish siege in 1480 when they destroyed much of the city and tortured and killed its people.

Otranto Cathedral

Otranto Cathedral

Otranto’s principal attraction is the Cathedral with its mosaic floor built in 1163-1165—it survived the Turkish invasion although parts of the Cathedral were destroyed. It’s one of the largest mosaics in Europe and covers the entire floor. Its central motif is the Tree of Life, supported at the base by elephants, a symbol of purity, with branches telling pagan and biblical stories. Another tree near the front of the church depicts heaven on one side and grizzly scenes from hell on the other.

Mosaic floor in Otranto cathedral

Mosaic floor in Otranto Cathedral

In the chapel you can see the human remains of the 800 martyrs who resisted the Turkish invasion and refused to convert to Islam. The empty sockets of hundreds of skulls stare down at you in stark contrast to the beauty of the mosaic floor.

Skull chapel, Otranto cathedral

The chapel of skulls in Otranto’s cathedral

Where to stay in Otranto: We visited Otranto while staying at Masseria Sant’Angelo 20 minutes inland. Otranto makes a good base in the Salento, though, with a range of accommodation from 5-star luxury hotels like Hotel Palazzo Papaleo to affordable B&Bs such as Mediterraneo Camere. You could also stay on a farm in the nearby countryside—Masseria Panareo looks stunning, and Agriturismo Tenuta Sant’Emiliano is an affordable option on an organic farm. You can find more hotels in Otranto here.
Where to eat in Otranto: L’Altro Baffo is the place to go if you like seafood, although they did make us some tasty vegetarian dishes (off the menu). Primo is a better option for vegetarians/vegans.


Gallipolli beach, Puglia, Italy

Gallipolli’s beach

Gallipoli’s old town is on an island connected by a causeway to the mainland. It has a relaxed, elegant vibe, stunning churches, and a golden curve of sand right in the centre of town, plus many more along the surrounding coast. It was ruled by the Greeks for five centuries between 7th and 2nd century BC, but all signs of their existence were destroyed by the Romans, and most of the architecture seen now is from the Middle Ages.

Gallipolli in Puglia, Italy

Other than leisurely walks along the city’s seafront walls, the most interesting thing to do in Gallipoli is visit Frantoio Ipogeo in Granafei Palace, one of the 35 underground olive presses. It was first used in 1600, excavated by hand out of the soft rock, to make olive oil for lamps which was exported around the world.

You can see the original equipment used for grinding and pressing the olives and get a sense of what it was like to work in this dark, damp cave. Blindfolded donkeys were used to work the olive mill and they lived down here with the workers who smoked weeds and carved little sculptures to distract themselves from the miserable conditions.

Underground olive mill, Gallipolli, Puglia

Underground olive mill

Where to stay in Gallipoli: We visited Gallipoli from Masseria Sant’Angelo about 35 minutes away. The town has some good value accommodation like Salento Palace B&B and Palazzo Rocci. You can find more places to stay in Gallipoli here.
Where to eat in Gallipoli: Il Bastione has fantastic sea views, but it’s a seafood restaurant, so it’s not the best option for vegetarians. Here are some more Gallipoli restaurant ideas.

Corigliano d’Otranto

Corigliano d'Otranto castleCorigliano d’Otranto is one of the 11 towns of the Grecia Salentina that have retained their Greek heritage from the Byzantine period including the Griko dialect. It’s a small untouristy town with an interesting medieval castle that you’ll likely have to yourself. De’Monti Castle actually consists of two castles. The medieval castle was built in 1465 with four rectangular towers and was strong enough to resist the Turkish invasion when they came here after destroying Otranto. The castle was fortified further in the 17th century with four round towers and a moat that encircles the inner castle. Later a rich family transformed it from a fortress into a luxurious Ducal palace and added Baroque details to the facade.

Baroque details of the facade of Corigliano d'Otranto's castle

Baroque details of the facade of Corigliano d’Otranto’s castle

Where to stay in Corigliano d’Otranto: Our main reason for visiting Corigliano was to stay at nearby Masseria Sant’Angelo, a working farm where you can learn about the traditions of the area from warm-hearted host Rocco who is a passionate musician of the local pizzica folk music. We ate fruit from their trees, milked a goat, learned how cheese was made and enjoyed nightly feasts with the family. It’s a special, authentic place that will take you way off the beaten track.
Where to eat in Corigliano d’Otranto: There’s an excellent restaurant on the terrace inside the castle where you can enjoy typical dishes of the local area (currently closed in 2017). The evening feasts at Masseria Sant’Angelo were our most memorable meals in Puglia.

Map of our Top 8 Puglia Towns

Resources for Planning a Trip to Puglia

  • Accommodation – Search on Booking.com (hotels, B&Bs, farmstays and apartments) and Airbnb (rooms and apartments—get $38 off here).
  • Flights – Look on Kiwi.com for flights to Bari or Brindisi. It offers a lot of flexibility to help you find the best deals (choose a date range to find the cheapest day to fly).
  • Train travel – See The Man in Seat 61 for the best advice, read our post on travelling from Italy to London by train, and consider an Interrail or Eurail pass if travelling to multiple destinations in Europe. 
  • Pack light – To avoid paying checked luggage fees on airlines. My book, The Carry-On Traveller: The Ultimate Guide to Packing Light, shows you how to travel with just carry-on luggage on any trip. 
  • Travel insurance – Essential in case anything goes wrong. The best we’ve found is True Traveller (UK/EU citizens), which we’ve been using for the last six years. World Nomads (worldwide) is another reliable option. 
  • To track your travel expenses use our iOS app Trail Wallet, which will help you stay on budget and know how much you’re spending in both Euros and your home currency.
  • See our travel resources page for more tools and gear recommendations to help you plan your trip.

We hope we’ve inspired you to head south and explore the towns of Puglia. These are just some of the possibilities, pick a town at random and you’ll likely to find a fascinating history, beautiful architecture, friendly people, and delicious food.

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Ostuni is one of the 8 gorgeous towns in Puglia not to miss. There are so many hidden gems in this southern region of Italy. | Never Ending VoyageThank you to Puglia Promozione, the region’s tourism board, who hosted us in Puglia, and to Dionisio our guide who showed us around a number of these towns.


Are you planning your next adventure? See our Travel Resources page for our favourite tools and gear to help you plan the perfect trip. 

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110 Comments (16 pingbacks)

  1. Enjoyed this post, Puglia is a place we still haven’t visited, we’ve spent most of our time in Northern and Central Italy.
    We’ve travelled much like you the last 4 years and one of the places we spent a lot of time in is Croatia. We actually took a year off from full-time travel and spent all of 2017 in Croatia visiting all of it’s little towns and islands.
    Looking at the above reminds me of Croatia (which I can’t say about other parts of Italy. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised since it shares the same Adriatic coast and is less than 100 km from Albania.

    So Lecce would be the place for a 1-month base? We usually like to base ourselves, usually staying in Airbnb apartments, and visit the surrounding region.
    I imagine the best time to visit is shoulder seasons (avoiding June – August)? Does it become crowded in summer? (one of our few issues with Croatia where it suddenly became a circus catering the worst kind of tourists in the summer).

    Frank (bbqboy)


    • Lecce is a great place to base yourself. We loved our month there. The only issue is that it can be tricky to get around without a car. We rented one for a few days but mostly stayed in Lecce. We were planning on trying public transport but it just seemed too much effort (infrequent and very slow) and the car hire was cheap.

      The only months I would avoid are July and August. Lots of Italians come to the beaches then. June and September would have the best weather but May/October and even April (when we visited this year) can be lovely. Just a higher risk of rainy days.

      Here’s our Lecce guide: https://www.neverendingvoyage.com/lecce-italy-travel-guide/


  2. Hi! I am trying to finish planning my honeymoon for next July. We are starting in Sicily, then amalfi coast, and then we have about 3 or 4nights where we don’t know if we should do Tuscany or Puglia. I don’t know much on either areas. I am leaning toward Puglia but, I am not sure if 1- thats too short of time and 2- where to base out of. I would love a bit of both beach / exploring the different towns. I wanted to visit Poligano a Mare but, not sure if that should be base or if Ostuni is anywhere nearby and to stay at a Masserie. If you can make any suggestions on where you would stay if you only had 3 nights in Puglia, that would be great! Thank you!!


    • Puglia makes more sense than Tuscany given the location, but it’s still a 4 hour drive from say Positano on the Amalfi Coast to Polignano a Mare.

      If you’d like to be in a small pretty town where you can walk to dinner, I’d recommend Polignano a Mare. You can easily visit nearby towns by car such as Ostuni (40 mins), Alberobello (30 mins) and Locorotondo (30 mins). The towns are small so you could visit 2-3 in one day, then have another day for relaxing. The beach in Polignano is picturesque, but it’s tiny and pebbly and will be crowded in July. We stayed at Malu B&B recently and loved the sea views: https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/malu-bed-breakfast.en-gb.html?aid=379621&label=comment

      If you’d prefer to experience the peaceful countryside, we absolutely love Masseria Il Frantoio (our favourite hotel in all of Italy) which is on an organic olive farm and has a nice pool. It’s only a 10 minute drive from Ostuni and the same from some long sandy beaches, plus you can visit Polignano, Alberobello etc easily by car. The food there is incredible – definitely try the tasting menu. You can read our full review here: https://www.neverendingvoyage.com/masseria-il-frantoio-review/

      Have an amazing honeymoon!


      • I would recommend Puglia. Go to Ceglie Messapica, a small town of about 21000 inhabitants. Stay at Sant’Anna B&B in the old town. Have breakfast on the roof terrasse and enjoy lunch and dinner in one of the many osterias or restaurants. Enjoy a coffe in Piazza Plebicito and se the old men strolling back and forth whild solving world problems. Or stop in a narrow street to see nonna making fresh pasta on a small rickety table outside. In the night, you may enjoy a free consert in one of the piazzas or just relax for a few minutes in one of the churches.


  3. Thank you for all you posts on Puglia. Any thoughts of choice between Tuscany and Puglia? Tuscany, although beautiful I am still very concerned I will be visiting tourist central in the first half of May. After spending one day on Cinque Terre it has left me scared as I felt like I was at Epcot with all the tourist and was looking and longing for an Italian village I could visit that easily meet Italians and not so many other tourists. Thank you.


  4. Grazie mille for taking the time to provide all this information! I guess you already know that answering a question usually leads to more – sorry.
    How is the public transportation in Puglia (and getting to Matera)? Should we rent a car for the entire trip (Start and end at the Bari airport)?
    Second, staying in Agriturismi or central city B&B’s. We really love being able to walk out of our accommodation and be in city streets, but we’ve never stayed in the country and have talked about it. In Vieste, we will stay in the town, also in Trani. But we wonder if we should visit Ostuni/Cisternino/Martina Franca/Alberobello from a central countryside location or from Martina Franca, which is fairly central. Then again in Salento stay in a country side accommodation central to SM di Leuca and Lecce – or a small city like Maglie, Galatina, or Martano? Your advice?


    • Public transport isn’t great. In the past we’ve got to Lecce (from Bologna), Bari (from Venice) and Matera (via Bari) by train with no problem. But exploring the smaller towns is trickier as trains/buses aren’t very regular and it’s much slower. It would be easier to have a car the whole time. We planned to try to visit some places from Lecce by public transport but then gave up and hired a cheap car for a few days.

      I recommend staying in an agriturismo for at least one section of your trip for the experience (but get one that does meals as it’s the best bit!). I recommend doing it the Ostuni/Valle d’Itria area as I think the countryside is prettier than the Salento (which is flatter). As I said we highly rate Masseria Il Frantoio and you can easily visit all those places from there.

      In the Salento I love Lecce and think it feels like a small town–it’s perfect for wandering. Galatina is cute and untouristy though. I would look at accommodation in various places and let that help you decide.

      Good luck!


      • Erin, You’ve given me a lot of great information. I have places booked in Vieste, Trani, and Matera (after Salento) – each for 4 days. Next on the my agenda to plan is Salento (6 days), Valle d’Itria (5 days), Polignano al Mare (3 days), then to the Bari airport and on to Tuscany (can’t stay away). I said earlier that we like small towns and you said that Lecce has a small town feel. But I went to Lecce, Gallipoli, Otranto, and Galatina on Google Earth and Lecce “feels” like a big city with 4 lane roads and lot’s of traffic. Otranto was touristy, but looked fun. I know Rome is a big city, but we love it because whatever area we are in “feels” like small town. Wherever we stay, we will visit the other places. But I hope to select a place that we just like waking up and walking out the door. Google Earth can be deceptive, but “a picture is worth a thousand words”. But you’ve been to these places and “being there is worth a thousand pictures”
        Can you help me decide please?


        • Hi Frank. It sounds like it’s shaping up to be a fantastic trip!

          I am not a big city fan but like Rome too because of the neighbourhood feel. I like being able to walk everywhere.

          Lecce does have some ugly bits and busy roads but those are on the outskirts. If you stay in the old city, as we did, you won’t need to leave it and traffic is limited there. Our Airbnb was on a gorgeous little street and it made me happy every time I stepped out of it. It would be my first choice unless you really want to be by the sea.

          If you’ve read over my Lecce post (https://www.neverendingvoyage.com/lecce-italy-travel-guide/) and still don’t think it’s for you, then choose one of the smaller towns. Otranto is beautiful and great for wandering and of course you have the sea views. It’s the most touristy of the places on your shortlist.

          Honestly, it’s a difficult decision because none of them are bad decisions! They are all lovely towns. I would happily stay in any of them.

          Have you looked into accommodation? That might help you decide. On our very first trip to Puglia we found a cheap house in a tiny, not particularly attractive beach town near Gallipoli and had a fantastic time as we were doing day trips every day.

  5. Hi, I’m Frank (of Cindy & Frank). I don’t know if you want to get into this much detail; This will be our 4th trip to Italy. We have been from Sicilia, the Amalfi Coast, Siena, Firenze, Cinque Terre, Lake Como, Venezia, & places between. But never to the eastern coast other than Venezia. I have spent more than 100 hours now trying to plan our trip around Puglia and I keep changing locations and length of stays. If we have a month (or a few days more), and want to see Puglia, where would you suggest we base our trips? Gargano looks interesting, as well as Ostuni, Martina Franca, Otranto, Gallipoli, and S.M di Leuca. We enjoy smaller towns in the historic centers, but we don’t mind visiting larger cities. One of my rules is to stay no less than 3 nights (preferably 4 or 5) in any one place. I’ve broken the rule before and regretted it. That would allow between 6 – 10 destinations. What do you suggest, if you have the time?


    • Hi Frank,
      I’m so pleased you’ll have such a long time in Puglia. We recently finished another 6 weeks there and have more towns to add to this post soon. Here was our itinerary (we hired a car one way and drove south to north after arriving in Lecce by train):

      – Lecce – 1 month – We were writing about it so you wouldn’t need as long here, but it does make a good base for exploring the Salento as it’s in the middle of the peninsula, so you could consider a week here. Otranto is another option if you prefer to be by the sea.

      – Masseria Il Frantoio (countryside near Ostuni) – 2 nights – Gorgeous olive oil farm but a bit pricey for us so we only stayed a few nights but would certainly recommend it for a week if you can afford it (and have a car).

      – Trullo dei Messapie (near Ceglie Messapica) – 4 nights – Great base for exploring Valle d”Itria. We did day trips to Cisternino and Martina Franca. Ceglie was untouristy and had great inexpensive restaurants. If you’d prefer to stay in a town rather than the countryside, Martina Franca is lovely (and less touristy than Ostuni).

      – Polignano a Mare – 2 nights – Definitely worth considering as one of your bases.

      -Vieste (Gargano) – 1 week – Great base for the area.

      Honestly Puglia isn’t huge and you could choose 3-4 bases (in the Salento, Valle d”Itria, the coast near Bari, and Gargano) and explore from there. Holiday rentals are often discounted if you rent for a week. I wouldn’t worry too much about the exact base -let the accommodation you find be a deciding factor. You can’t go wrong with any of the places you mentioned (although SM di Leuca is less convenient for exploring the Salento).

      Have an amazing trip!


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