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A month of train travel and we’ve made it: from London to Palermo by train with some wonderful detours along the way. We’ve travelled much more quickly than we’re used to these days and although there have been some exhausting moments, we’ve had some incredible experiences and also rediscovered our love for train travel.
It really is the best way to travel—comfortable, spacious, and we found that our train travel days were our most productive. Alternating between staring at the landscapes we passed and working on our laptops we found six hour train trips flew by and we were disappointed when they ended (we’ve never said that about a bus or plane).
Armed with an InterRail pass it was particularly stress free as except on some of the fancy trains (where we needed reservations) we could jump on any train without a ticket.
Despite a hectic travel schedule Simon even managed to very nearly complete Trail Wallet 2.0, a shiny new version of our travel expenses tracking app. This major update will have a completely new design, and lots of new features including the ability to set your own dates and track your expenses by trip as well as by month. It’s been a huge amount of work but we’re really happy with the results and have had great feedback from our beta testers. If all goes according to plan it should be in the Apple App Store next week!
I have many many posts to write about our travels in Slovenia and Italy but it’s going to take me ages to catch up so in the meantime I wanted to share a snapshot of our trip with the photos we posted along the way on Instagram. We are fairly new to Instagram, having only had a data enabled smartphone for five months, but we are really getting into it as a quick way to share our experiences as they happen. All these photos were taken with our iPhone 5 and most of them by Simon.
Our epic train trip started with a recreation of the beginning of our first InterRail trip 13 years ago—the Eurostar from London to Paris. In just two hours we found ourselves in sunny Paris stepping out of the grand Gare du Nord.
We spent most of our time exploring the artsy, multi-cultural neighbourhood Belleville and happily living off baguettes and cheese, but we did take a long walk into the centre to see the more classic sights like Notre Dame.
A comfortable TGV train whisked us from Paris to Munich where we gawked at the gothic architecture, ate pretzels, and of course drank an oversized beverage in a beer hall.
A leisurely journey through the Austrian countryside brought us to Ljubljana, the tiny, laid-back capital of Slovenia. Like everyone else we know who has visited we promptly fell in love, and who wouldn’t with scenes like these.
The rest of Slovenia was just as wonderful. We visited the dramatic Škocjan caves and met the gentle Lippizaner horses at Lipica stud farm.
We loved the cute villages in Slovenia and Vipava was particularly lovely, and not just because we tasted all of these local wines (we were so impressed by the wine in Slovenia!).
But Slovenia kept getting better and better and when we walked into Hotel Triglav at Lake Bled and saw that this was our view there may have been some squeals of glee.
At Lake Bled even a morning run didn’t feel like work when you had views like this.
On the 3glav Adventures action-packed day trip the Emerald River Adventure we explored the Julian Alps, Simon jumped off a terrifying 10 metre high bridge, and we rafted through the turquoise waters of the Soča river. Slovenia seriously has the most beautiful coloured water of anywhere we’ve ever seen.
We will definitely be back to Slovenia (a month at Lake Bled sounds rather tempting) but the only place that could console us as we left was…
Venice! How we’d let 13 years pass before we returned after our first visit I don’t know. It was just as magical this time, and despite the painful hotel prices we wished we’d stayed more than one night.
A long train journey took us down Italy’s Adriatic Coast where we passed scenes like this…
And even stayed in one at Masseria Ferri. These farm stays were a highlight of our trip especially the long family-style meals with our hosts.
At Masseria Il Frantoio we explored the ancient olive groves in this 1949 Fiat.
And wandered through the alleyways of the white city of Ostuni.
Mostly in Puglia we ate…
This region has the most vegetarian-friendly food in all of Italy, which is saying a lot in a country we come to just to eat.
After deciding that next year we’ll be back to Puglia for a much longer stay (perhaps a month in Lecce?) we hopped over the border to Basilicata. Matera is one of the most spectacular cities in Italy (and the world), a series of caves carved out of limestone and teetering on the edge of a ravine.
Like Puglia Matera also does the most delicious vegetarian antipasti plates (yes, you eat all of this before pasta).
In South Italy the train travel isn’t quite as easy and we had our only train mishap on the journey across Italy’s ankle. We missed our train to Bari through pure stupidity (we sat upstairs while it departed beneath us) which meant we missed our onward connection. To save ourselves four hours we sucked it up and took a bus (sigh) to Naples.
Which we confess we found chaotic, noisy and litter-strewn. We just couldn’t warm to it (but how could it compete with Matera?). Mostly we ate pizza (delicious but was it really any better than the pizza we ate in Rome? Controversial!).
Our most uncomfortable travel day was the long journey down to Sicily. The train rocked so much I felt like I was on a bus. The whole train was put on the ferry, an impressive display, but of course all that dismantling/putting the train back together business made us late to Milazzo where we barely made the ferry over to the Aeolian Islands.
I spent the entire two hour journey struggling not to join the others with their heads in plastic bags, but it was worth it when we arrived in Salina and woke up the next morning to this view at Hotel Il Principe di Salina.
We loved the sleepy village of Malfa where farmers were harvesting grapes to make the local dessert wine, the wonderful, honey-like Malvasia.
And there were sea views like this…
We hired a scooter and reliving our Thailand days (ah, we miss scootering about) explored the island including the colourful village of Lingua.
Where we ate one of Alfredo’s infamous pane cunzato, an open topped sandwich the size of a pizza piled high with mozzarella, olives, capers (grown on the island), tomatoes (sundried and cherry), and marinated aubergine. Delicious!
We braved the seas again to get to Stromboli a small island dominated by the volcano, which of course we climbed. The trek was totally worth it for views down into the three craters of the gurgling smoking volcano as the sun set over the sea. We sat on the warm earth and watched the eruptions. It was an incredible experience and the perfect way to end our train trip.
Read more about travelling from London to Italy by train.
Eurail.com provided us with complimentary InterRail global rail passes (the pass for Europeans) as we’ll be writing some articles for their new Eurail blog. Our Puglia travels and part of our Slovenia trip were supported by the local tourism boards.