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I was a bit worried before we arrived in Rapallo. I liked that the town was more popular with Italians than foreign visitors, and it was cheaper than elsewhere along the Italian Riviera, but I’d also heard mixed reviews with some people describing it as “gritty”.
I needn’t have worried. I loved Rapallo as soon as I took my first walk along the palm-tree-lined promenade.
It’s so colourful—the blue sea, the green mountain backdrop, the elegant hotels and villas painted terracotta and mustard and pink.
The marina at one end is home to fancy new yachts while at the other a tiny 16th-century castle juts out of the sea.
In this post, I share the best things to do in Rapallo, Italy including day trips along the Italian Riviera (including Cinque Terre), why I think it’s the perfect base for the Ligurian coast, and where to stay and eat.
At the end of the post, you’ll find a Rapallo map with all the mentioned attractions.
Contents
- Where is Rapallo Italy?
- Introducing Rapallo
- Day Trips from Rapallo
- Where to Stay in Rapallo
- The Best Rapallo Restaurants
- How to Get to Rapallo
- Rapallo Italy Map
- Is Rapallo Worth Visiting?
- More Italy Posts
Where is Rapallo Italy?
Rapallo is located in the region of Liguria on the Italian Riviera in northwestern Italy.
It’s south of Genova (known as Genoa in English) and north of the famous Cinque Terre, five picturesque coastal villages.
The nearest major city is Genova, which is about an hour away by train. Genoa Airport (GOA) is the nearest international airport.
See the How to Get to Rapallo section below for details on getting there by train and exploring the area by train and ferry.
Introducing Rapallo
Rapallo has a relaxed seaside holiday vibe with elderly Italians and families strolling along the promenade or sitting on a bench with a gelato and enjoying the view.
Maybe this is the secret to the long life expectancy of Italians—rather than being in old people’s homes, the elders are brought out into the sunshine with the family, even if they need a wheelchair to get around.
I could see why writers W.B. Yeats and Ezra Pound found the town so inspiring when they lived here in the 1920s. I’d only just arrived but I didn’t want to leave.
We hadn’t planned to do much on our first afternoon, but we were caught up in the summer vibe and hurried back to our apartment for our swimwear.
The coast is lined with lidos, private beaches where you pay to rent a sunbed and umbrella. We just wanted a quick swim so we walked further out of town until we found a public beach—a small pebbly cove down some stairs.
The water is lovely and clear once you leave the Rapallo bay behind and a refreshing swim was just what we needed after a morning on trains.
We didn’t have the beach to ourselves. Italian beaches are social occasions, not opportunities to escape it all. Friends and families chatted, played music, and smoked while they worked on their tans. You just have to embrace it.
My love for Rapallo grew the more we explored. One of the distinctive features of the Italian Riviera is the trompe-l’oeil or painted decorative details on buildings that trick the eye into thinking they’re real. Arches, portals, balustrades, and brickwork are all fake.
Some buildings even have artificial windows painted on the upper storeys. Apparently this was to avoid a building tax in the 18th century that was based on the number of windows.
Our cosy apartment was in the perfect location in the pedestrianised historic centre, a minute’s walk from the sea in one direction and the train station in the other.
I loved being in the heart of the action with locals crowded into the narrow lanes chatting, shopping for fresh pasta, eating gelato, drinking an aperitivo in a pavement cafe, or just strolling on the evening passeggiata.
Space is limited but it feels cosy rather than claustrophobic.
The food shopping alone made me want to return for a longer stay. Right around the corner was a vegetable market with pristine piles of tomatoes, melons, and porcini mushrooms.
In the other direction, a shop sold fresh pasta and homemade pesto—perfect for a quick and tasty meal.
Focaccia is a local speciality and every day the bakery tempted us in for another slice. Then there’s the gelato. So much deliciousness…
Day Trips from Rapallo
Rapallo was the perfect base for exploring the Italian Riviera.
During our week’s stay we walked to elegant Santa Margherita Ligure and glitzy Portofino, and we took the train all along the coast—to Cinque Terre where we hiked between the villages and Genova to visit the Aquarium and ancient centre.
Best of all, we took the train to Camogli, where we hiked to the gorgeous monastery and beach of San Fruttuoso and took the scenic ferry ride back to Rapallo.
Read our guide to the Italian Riviera for more details.
As much as we loved the other towns we visited, Rapallo felt like a much less touristy place to come home to.
A week wasn’t enough. There was still so much we wanted to do—take the cable car to Santuario Basilico di Montallegro for the views (one of the top things to do in Rapallo), visit the beach at Sestri Levante (one of the rare sandy beaches), do more hikes along the coast, and learn to cook Ligurian cuisine.
And there’s always more focaccia and pesto to be eaten.
Where to Stay in Rapallo
Renting a holiday home or apartment in Rapallo is one of the most affordable ways to experience the Italian Riviera.
Our Rapallo Apartment
We stayed in this one-bedroom apartment in the perfect location in the historic centre. It was very comfortable, cosy, and well equipped with a TV, fast WiFi, washing machine, and everything you need in the kitchen.
The downside is the cramped shower—you have to sit down in the bath if you are tall. The owner was really helpful and even sent his mum to meet us at the station (which is very close).
It was very affordable, but we paid a bit more to be close to the sea and train station. If you don’t mind walking 10-20 minutes, there are cheaper options on the outskirts. It’s not a big town so nowhere is very far.
Search for more holiday rentals in Rapallo here.
Rapallo Hotels
If you are looking for a splurge, check out the 5-star Excelsior Palace Hotel. It has two infinity pools overlooking the sea that we gazed at longingly when we walked past.
You can also pay to use their Beach Club for the day—we regret not doing that.
More affordable options with central locations in Rapallo include:
- Hotel Vesuvio – You can’t beat the location of this lovely hotel right on the promenade. All rooms have wonderful sea views and balconies.
- Hotel Astoria – A friendly, family-run hotel across from the promenade with excellent reviews. Some rooms have sea views.
- Hotel Portofino – Affordable rooms in the heart of Rapallo.
Search here for more Rapallo hotels.
The Best Rapallo Restaurants
Eating was a highlight of our Rapallo visit. The region of Liguria has a number of delicious, vegetarian-friendly specialities including:
- Trofie al pesto – Short twisted pasta with basil sauce.
- Pansoti alla salsa di noci – Cheese and spinach stuffed ravioli with a walnut sauce.
- Lasagne al pesto – Thin sheets of pasta with basil sauce (not like a thick typical lasagna).
See our Dos and Don’ts of Eating in Italy for what to expect from courses, cover charges, etc.
Here are the Rapallo restaurants and bars we recommend:
Panificio Tossini
The Tossini bakery chain from the nearby village of Recco specialises in focaccia col formaggio, flatbread stuffed with oozing stracchino cheese.
It’s best eaten hot so look out for a fresh pan coming out of the oven.
We loved all their focaccia varieties and pizza slices. It’s ideal for breakfast, a light lunch, or afternoon snack. It’s close to the station.
Tossini is very popular so take a ticket and join the queue.
Gelateria Frigidarium
This excellent gelateria is near the castle. I loved the chocolate, pistachio, and melon flavours. It’s just a shame you have to pay extra for a decent cone.
Enoteca il Castello and Sole Bar
These two side by side bars are the perfect spots for a sunset aperitivo as they are right on the water away from the road and have a view of the castle. The free snacks with drinks are generous.
Hostaria Vecchia Rapallo
Hostaria Vecchia Rapallo is our favourite restaurant in Rapallo. The food is fancier than at the other restaurants we ate in and we liked the cave-like, old school atmosphere.
There are a number of vegetarian options and we especially enjoyed the spinach and zucchini torta with truffle carpaccio and the pear ravioli with cheese sauce and balsamic cream—the slight sweetness worked really well with the rich cheese.
They also offer 3-hour gourmet cooking classes where you can learn to make Ligurian dishes like pesto, lasagne, and stuffed vegetables, and enjoy a delicious meal of everything you created. They can cater for vegetarians.
Trattoria Ö Bansin
O Bansin is a simpler, cheaper Rapallo restaurant that dates back to 1907.
The breadsticks and olive oil in packets didn’t inspire us with confidence, but the pansoti was my favourite in Rapallo. Our trofie al pesto and melanzana parmigiana were also good.
Pomodoro E Basilico Pizzeria
For a quick, inexpensive meal in Rapallo, you can’t beat Pomodoro E Basilico’s margherita pizza (and there’s no cover charge).
It’s a basic takeout place with a few tables located a 10-minute walk outside the centre. The tasty pizza is Neapolitan style.
How to Get to Rapallo
Rapallo is easily reached by train from major Italian cities (and even France).
Rapallo is 1 hour from Genova, 2 hours 15 minutes from Milan, 3 hours from Florence (with a change in Pisa), and 4.5 hours from Rome.
You can find train times on TrenItalia (use Italian place names i.e Roma rather than Rome).
If you are travelling to Rapallo from further afield, you will need to book the faster Freccia trains online. You get given a PNR code which you can show the conductor on the train.
Regional trains are cheapest and don’t need to be booked in advance.
Santa Margherita Ligure (3 minutes away) and Camogli (8 minutes) can be reached quickly by train from Rapallo.
Rapallo to Cinque Terre
Train
To get from Rapallo to Cinque Terre, you can take the train to any of the five villages, but some sections can be closed for hiking.
When we visited only the Monterosso-Vernazza-Corniglia section was open.
We took the early train to Corniglia with a change at Sestri Levante (1 hour 20 minutes total), walked to Monterosso via Vernazza, and took the train back (40 minutes direct from Monterosso to Rapallo).
Our post on the best things to do in the Italian Riviera has more information about Cinque Terre.
Ferry
There’s also a limited ferry service from Rapallo to Cinque Terre from April to September.
There’s only one departure a day leaving Rapallo at 8.30am or 8.45am (depending on the route) with a return in the late afternoon. Bookings are required.
Rapallo to Portofino
There’s no train station in Portofino so we walked along the scenic coastline.
It took us 40 minutes to walk from Rapallo to Santa Margherita Ligure (you could also take the 3-minute train ride) and from there it’s just over an hour’s walk to Portofino.
You can also get a bus to Portofino, but they are always packed.
The ferry is a scenic (if more expensive) way to get from Rapallo to Santa Margherita, Portofino, and San Fruttuoso.
Line 1 of the Tigullio Ferry covers these destinations with ferries about once an hour from 9am to 5pm from May to September.
Timetables vary depending on the month and whether it’s a weekend or not. There are less frequent services in March, April, and October, and they close in the winter.
The Rapallo to Portofino ferry takes 30 minutes and it’s an extra 30 minutes to continue on to San Fruttuoso.
I recommend doing at least one ferry journey along the beautiful coast.
Walking to Portofino and then taking the ferry back to Rapallo is an ideal day out.
Rapallo Italy Map
This map shows the key places to visit in Rapallo (and nearby) as well as our favourite restaurants.
Is Rapallo Worth Visiting?
Yes, Rapallo is absolutely worth visiting! It’s beautiful, walkable, and has excellent food shops, restaurants, and a bustling historic centre.
It’s easy to explore the many towns, beaches, and hikes along the coast by train or ferry. I highly recommend Rapallo as your Italian Riviera base.
We loved our week there and are very tempted to return for a month or two.
If you have any suggestions on what to do in Rapallo, leave a comment below.
More Italy Posts
Liguria
- 10 Best Things to Do in the Italian Riviera
- Hiking to San Fruttuoso: The Perfect Day on the Italian Riviera
- Finale Ligure, Italy: The Quiet Side of the Italian Riviera
Elsewhere in Italy
- 16 Unmissable Things to Do in Bologna
- The Best Restaurants in Varenna, Lake Como
- 10 Reasons to Visit the Langhe Wine Region in Piemonte
- 29 Unusual Things to Do in Rome to Escape the Crowds
- London to Italy By Train: Everything You Need to Know
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Just spent a few days in Rapallo and I totally agree. So accessible via train and boats to all over the Italian Riviera (including Cinque Terre, Portofino, etc.), has incredible food (omg still dreaming about all the excellent seafood and pastas!) that’s not marked up, and the people there were just lovely. The town is so cute and has that laid back old school beach resort town feel to it. I am super happy that this was the last spot on my 3-week trip for a memorable finish. I would absolutely go back anytime!
Thanks so much for this – we just booked to stay in Rapallo this August and this is a really helpful resource!
Wonderful – enjoy!
Hi Erin, I’m driving from France to Rapallo in July and would like to leave my car for two days, and take the train to Santa Margherita Ligure where our hotel is. Do you know of any overnight parking lots? Is it safe to leave the car?
Thank you.
We didn’t drive so I don’t have any information about car parks. I am wondering why you don’t drive to Santa Margherita instead? Your hotel should be able to advise about parking even if they don’t have onsite parking.
Thank you for this information ! I fell in love with the Rapallo area last year !
We’re going back in Oct. hope the weather is still delightfully!
We only have a day trip this year. What would you do for the day.
Quicker meal so we can spend time exploring ..
thanks
It depends what you’ve done already. We absolutely loved the hike from Camogli to San Fruttuoso and the ferry back to Rapallo (just check the ferry times in advance as they will be more limited in October.). If you don’t like hiking, just the ferry to San Fruttuoso and back (with a stop at Portofino maybe) is worth it.
Rapallo is a fantastic chilled place to base yourself in between trips u and down the coast or even just relax on an Italian holiday, people are friendly, the food is good, it is truly a hidden gem along the Riviera coast. I fell in love with the place when my wife and I arrived to begin a cross Europe trip in 2022 and look forward to spending some more time there in the future…
I’m so glad you enjoyed it, Damien!
Brilliant tips Rebecca! Rapallo sounds amazing! We are a family of 4, kids are 5 and 8… We are still deciding whereabouts to base ourselves for a week in Liguria this June… Do you have any Rapallo ‘child friendly’ tips to add at all?!
We stayed in Rapallo this past September 2022 for four days. Easily one of the best surprises of our 2 weeks in Italy (Venice > Florence > Rapallo). Really loved that area- even took the cable car up to the church, had a wonderful lunch at the restaurant at the foot of the church
We splurged and stayed at the Excelsior Palace-beautiful views of the water in the evenings.
Can’t wait to go back
I’m so pleased you enjoyed Rapallo, Brian! And I’m jealous you stayed at the Excelsior – we’ll have to do that next time!
We were in Portofino and Rapallo in 2018 and loved every moment. So now we are visiting Rapallo for 2 weeks in June 2023 to celebrate my 80th birthday, my wife’s 75th and our 55th wedding Anniversary. We are retired and cant do too much walking. How can we travel and get around to see and experience all the wonderful sites in and around Rapallo. And which area is the best and most convenient to stay in?
I’d recommend staying anywhere within a short walk of Rapallo train station as you can the get around by train. Have an amazing trip!
My husband & I are currently in Santa Margherita (have spent 12 days here) & move to Rapallo for 3 weeks on Monday.
We are from Australia & have returned to this area having spent time here in 2019.
We love it here for all the reasons already stated & hope that it remains off the tourist trail .. we feel it is the perfect place to unwind!
We particularly love the walk from Rapallo to Santa Margherita (and return) as well as Portofino back to Santa Margherita ..
We stay in Airbnb’s & absolutely love living like locals ..
That sounds like a wonderful trip! I’m glad you are enjoying it!
THANK YOU! We are going in July with our kids and this is very helpful!
Rosalyn,
We are considering Rapallo for 7 nights in June with our kids – 5 and 8 yrs… How did you find it? We’re there enough things to do to keep the kids happy?! Any feedback would be much appreciated!
I agree whole heartedly,the beaches you describe between rapallo and San margherita are stunning,weather in summer sublime ,great food market’s (even fish markets if you hunt for them)like you said you can get anywhere simply by train .Luca was one of our favorites, Camalogi for apertivo a must ,the walk to San Frattuoso followed by lunch(lacantina) and the ferry back so worth while. Cable car a must .We have stayed for a month for the last 4 years next year hopefully a lot longer as it is our favorite place in Italy for all the above reasons and more . Only caveat don’t tell to many people as the lack of foreign tourists is one of its most appealing attributes ( unfortunately that’s changing a little
I’m glad you enjoyed it as much as we did! We really must return for a longer stay.
So glad you enjoyed my home city. For your next trip I would recommend you to buy pansoti fresh made pasta at Dasso shop and warm focaccia from Pellegrine bakery.
Also a quick stop to Canepa patisserie for an amazing croissant (chocolate and cream are my favourite).
Thank you for this beautiful review ?
Now I want to go back! Thanks for the recommendations!
LOVE your blog, it’s really helped in planning our trip to Rapallo, I’m literally diarising our week based on your recommendations.
Louise x
Aw, thank you Louise! Enjoy Rapallo!
Unfortunately we were supposed to fly yesterday – ah well!
Oh no, that’s a shame! I hope you make it there once things improve.
Thank you for the great introduktion to Rapallo. We would like to go in september but as my partner has MS and a some trouble walking we’re use a mobility scooter. Are we crazy to want to go there or is the city okay for disabled people?
Thanks,
Anja
I can’t say for sure, but I think you’ll be ok. It’s a fairly level town, at least compared to the hill towns of Tuscany or the very hilly coastal towns of the Amalfi Coast.
I hope it works out and you enjoy your stay!
Awesome, Erin…thanks so much! Yes, I strategically chose a hotel next to Milano Centrale Station so I could begin the journey easily. I’ll make sure to check out the Rapallo train station self-service ticket machines to become familiar. And I am grateful you pointed out the issue with ferries departing from Rapallo (I didn’t notice when checking out the Traghetti website). If Santa Margherita Ligure is only a short distance away, problem solved. Looking forward to the adventure…thanks again!
So glad you created this resource…thank you! I leave for Milan in late August and will be taking the train direct to Rapallo after an overnight stay. But I need help understanding how to obtain train and ferry tickets to get around solo. It’s been a challenge finding ready-made excursions and don’t mind going DIY, but I’m a planner and like to firm up as much as possible in advance. Can you provide any insight? Is there a regional hop-on, hop-off train pass? Are there updates on reconstruction in Rapallo? Sorry for all the questions, but inquiring minds want to know! ?
Hi Kelly
For the train from Milan to Rapallo you can book online at https://www.trenitalia.com/en.html . Make sure you type Milano in the from field and you’ll probably leave from Milano Centrale. You’ll be able to see the various routes/times. There is the occasional intercity train that goes direct to Rapallo or you can change in Genova. You can buy an e-ticket without creating an account and you usually just have to tell the train conductor the PNR code of your booking.
From the regional trains that run along the Ligurian coast there’s no need to book in advance and you can’t reserve seats anyway. You can check train times on Trenitalia (make sure you look for the cheaper Regionale trains). Just go to the train station at least 15 minutes before the train departs and buy a ticket from the self-service machine (they have instructions in English) or the counter. Just remember to validate the ticket (get a time printed on it) in the machines on the platform before your board.
There’s no regional train pass that I know of but the tickets are really cheap.
For ferries just turn up at the terminal before departure and buy the ticket there. I don’t think ferries are running from Rapallo yet (maybe by August), but you could get the train or walk to Santa Margherita and get the ferry from there. Check ferry times here: http://traghettiportofino.it/en/lines-and-trips/line-1/
I’ve heard mixed things about the reconstruction in Rapallo. Some says it’s noticeable and some say it didn’t affect their trip at all. Please report back to us!
Have a wonderful time!
Thank you for this! Wow! Amazing information! I am arriving tomorrow as a single traveller so all of this is beyond helpful! Thank you
Have a wonderful time in Rapallo, Kellie!
Thank you for posting this. I am going nuts trying to find a day excursion from Rappallo to Cinque Terre. I will be there in September.
You can visit easily enough by yourself on the train. Then you have the option to start early and avoid the crowds too. Enjoy!
Please note that Rapallo suffered from a lot of storm damage in October 2018. I’m here at the moment and there is still a lot of reconstruction work going on especially round the harbour. The castle is inaccessible at present as are the beaches due to the damage.
That’s sad to hear. The castle wasn’t open even before the storm though. Can you still walk along the seafront?
Thanks for the informative blog. My friend and I are going to Rapallo in September and we are really looking forward to it. Some great tips here.
Thank you and enjoy Rapallo!
Hi Erin, I must say you have a way with words! You almost vicariously walked me through the lanes of Rapallo. I am supposed to visit in July and chanced upon your blog while searching what to expect and I am glad I did. This looks like any other laid back Italian riviera town I have been to but still seems to have a unique charm of its own. Keep writing!
Aw, thank you so much!
Great blog – I’m there late September and this has put me right in the mood for the trip. Some great excursion tips here thanks.
Have an amazing time Julie! We miss this part of the world.
We are staying in Rapallo the end of Sept. 2018 for 10 day’s after visiting Genoa for three nights and feel we have picked a great spot to travel the Italian Riviera.After reading your post we are so happy now we chose here.Can’t wait to arrive.Many thanks for your beautiful pictures and wonderful blog.
Have an amazing trip Deb – Rapallo is wonderful!
Thanks for the information on Rapallo. My children and I are traveling to Italy in June and are staying two nights at Rapallo. Your post has really made me excited about staying there. I appreciated knowing how far neighboring places are and the best way to get there. I also liked the fact that you mentioned some places to eat and what you enjoyed eating. Although I am of Italian heritage and frequently cook Italian cuisine, it is nice to find out about new dishes we may want to try. Thank you for all of your tips.
I hope you have a wonderful trip Lucia. It’s a beautiful part of Italy with so much good food to eat!
I love Rapallo. It was my vacation place when I was a child. There are a bautiful beach near Rapallo, San Michele di Pagana. You can arrive walking along the cost, there are big villas and hotels. It’ s a beautiful passegiata too.
I think we passed that beach on our walks to Santa Margherita. It’s such a beautiful area – we really want to return for a longer stay.
Rapallo is a beautiful spot for exploring the Ligurian coastline but check out Zoagli next door for that small town, Italian coastal feel. Great, inexpensive restaurant right on the beach as well, next to the Castello Canevaro.
Thanks for the tip Rebecca. We’ll add Zoagli to our list for next time!
Just stunning … thinking about visiting this part of Europe on my trip there later in 2017 … you might have convinced me!
Yep. Rapallo is like one of those Norman Rockwell paintings that shows what life was like fifty years ago. The locals feel the place has been ruined by overbuilding apartments in the 1960’s, but for a California boy this place couldn’t be much more charming. The whole Ligurian area stinks with history, and a bunch of the sites and ruins around here pre-date even the Romans. The snorkeling here is fabulous on spring and summer days, and it feels like swimming in a huge aquarium filled with colorful fish. The surrounding hills are covered by ancient trails, and there’s edible stuff to collect almost every month. Rapallo is packed with arrogant Milanese tourists and vacation-homers in the summer, but they are usually kind enough to just ignore the scattering of American tourists. I suppose I could live anyplace in the world. I’ve tried Bali, Hawaii, Mexico, Amsterdam and a bunch of places in the states, but I moved to Rapallo in 2000, and I don’t believe I’ll move anywhere else now. I know it’s heretical for Americans, but I don’t even have a car anymore, just a cool old Vespa I fixed up.
hello thanks for your input, how did you manage to get a visa to live in Italy not being European?, usually isnt possible.