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Set on a hillside, Taormina is all about the views—down to the Ionian Sea and up to snow-capped Mt Etna, with lush green hills and terracotta-roofed villages in between.
This chic Sicilian hill town has been a popular holiday destination for hundreds of years (it was a stop on the 18th century Grand Tour), and even more so since season two of The White Lotus TV show was filmed here.
Taormina has mixed reports from visitors. Some say it’s the most beautiful town in Sicily, while others think it’s overcrowded, overpriced, and touristy.
Your enjoyment will likely depend on when you visit. In summer, the narrow streets of this small town will be packed and hard to enjoy.
When we visited in late March, it wasn’t too busy, and we thought it was stunning (despite plentiful rain!).
In this Taormina travel guide, I share the best things to do in Taormina, how to get there, and where to stay. At the end, you’ll find a map with every place mentioned.
Contents
- Our Top Picks in Taormina
- Best Things to Do in Taormina
- How to Get to Taormina
- Taormina Map
- Is Taormina Worth Visiting?
- More Sicily Tips
Our Top Picks in Taormina
Best Sight: Teatro Antico (Greek Theatre).
Best Meal: La Bottega del Formaggio.
Best Granita: Bam Bar.
Best Hike: To Chiesa Madonna della Rocca (and onwards to Castelmola).
Best Day Trip: Mt Etna (we did this Etna south side summit hiking tour).
Best Things to Do in Taormina
1) Stay in a Room with a View
As I’ve said, Taormina is all about the views, so why not enjoy them from your room or balcony?
There are some very fancy hotels in Taormina (€1000 a night or more is not uncommon).
If you have the cash, look at hotels like Hotel Metropole or Hotel Villa Belvedere, or if you really want to splurge, the Four Seasons San Domenico Palace (where The White Lotus was filmed).
All these have excellent locations in the centre, swimming pools, and amazing views.
If you are on a budget, there are some good deals at B&Bs for under €100, especially in the low/shoulder seasons (the best time to visit anyway).
We stayed at Villa Sara B&B in a simple but comfortable and spacious double room.
The highlight was the stunning view of the sea and Mt Etna from our room and the large balcony (in better weather, it would have been a fantastic place to relax with a drink).
Host Domenico is very friendly. He gave us tips on the area, helped us park in his small garage, and provided a tasty breakfast.
The only downside is the location up steep steps from the centre of town. It’s a solid 10-minute climb up and does feel like a workout.
For us, it was worth it for the views and onsite parking (which is rare and at €10 a day, a good deal for Taormina).
Make sure to book far in advance, though, as there are only a few rooms. Check availability for Villa Sara on Booking.
Note that as Taormina is on a hillside, you’ll spend a lot of time climbing stairs unless you choose a hotel near Corso Umberto (the main street and pretty much the only flat part).
2) Step Back in Time at the Greek Theatre
Teatro Antico di Taormina is an ancient Greek Theatre and the town’s most famous sight.
Originally built in the 3rd century BC, it could accommodate 10,000 spectators for classical plays. It was rebuilt under Roman rule and used for gladiatorial battles.
The amphitheatre still occasionally hosts performances, but if you don’t catch one, you can still sit on the stone seating and imagine watching a play 2300 years ago.
Even if you aren’t a history buff, the Greek Theatre is a must see for the spectacular views of the town and sea. If you are lucky, you can see Mt Etna (we didn’t in the rain).
Entrance costs €14 for adults (under 18s are free). Opening times vary, so check the website.
To avoid the crowds, it’s best to visit first or last thing. In early spring, it wasn’t too busy in the middle of the day, though.
3) Stroll Corso Umberto
Corso Umberto is Taormina’s pedestrianised main street, running for almost 1km between the historic gates Porta Catania and Porta Messina.
Here, you’ll find shops (a mix of cheap souvenirs, foodie treats, and high-end fashion) and some of Taormina’s main sights.
From the Porta Catania end, you’ll first come across Taormina’s tiny medieval Duomo (cathedral), which has a pretty fountain outside.
About halfway along Corso Umberto is the main piazza, Piazza IX Aprile, with its black and white checkered floor.
There are a couple of pricey cafes, the baroque Chiesa di San Giuseppe, and panoramic views of the sea and Mt Etna (maybe).
On a rainy evening, the outdoor seating here wasn’t appealing, so we had aperitivo in the Re di Bastoni Pub, a little further on from the piazza. It was the only lively bar, and I had my favourite negroni of the trip here. They also have craft beer.
Just before Porta Messina is Palazzo Corvaja, with its mix of architectural styles, from the Arabic tower battlements to the Norman hall (where the Sicilian parliament met in the 15th century) to Gothic mullioned windows. Entrance to the palace is currently closed.
4) Discover the Backstreets
The crowds on Corso Umberto can get overwhelming at busy times, so be sure to head off it to explore the pretty backstreets.
One of our favourite discoveries was Giammonarte, an art shop on Via Giardinazzo (which runs parallel to the main street). The burro’s tail succulents dangling from the balcony are impressive.
The unique Teste di Moro (Moor’s Heads) ceramic plant pots are found all over Sicily and symbolise a tragic love story.
Another charming street is Via Timoleone, where, after visiting the Greek Theatre, we walked down stairs lined with orange trees and gorgeous-smelling Angel’s Trumpet flowers.
I Giardini di Babilonia restaurant here looked like a lovely place for a meal on a warm day in the garden under lemon and orange trees.
5) Admire the View from Chiesa Madonna della Rocca
Chiesa Madonna della Rocca is worth the climb up from town. Look for the “Scalinata Salita al Castello” to find the staircase up (about 20 minutes).
Or it’s a much shorter walk if you stay at Villa Sara B&B like us.
The small church is carved into the rock, and you can go inside for free.
The highlight was the view of the sea, the whole town, including the Greek Theatre, and the cacti-lined path.
You can also walk further up to the castle, but our B&B host said it wasn’t worth it.
If you are a keen hiker, you can also continue up to the pretty village, Castelmola (see below).
6) Try Granita at Bam Bar
After climbing Taormina’s many staircases, you’ll appreciate a refreshing granita at Bam Bar.
Bam Bar is on every list of what to do in Taormina (and appears in The White Lotus), and happily, its frozen Sicilian treat (a cross between a sorbet and slushy) lives up to the hype.
The advantage of visiting in the off-season is that we got a table outside at this popular spot.
You can choose up to two flavours per bowl and opt for cream (panna) on top or a brioche on the side (the classic Sicilian summer breakfast combo).
Check the board outside for the flavours that are currently available.
My lemon and raspberry granita was absolutely delicious.
7) Wander the Gardens at Villa Comunale
Villa Comunale is Taormina’s free public gardens. While only 5-10 minutes from the main street, it’s a much quieter spot to wander.
The garden was originally created in 1890 by Florence Trevelyan, a British woman who is rumoured to have been expelled from England by Queen Victoria after an affair with Prince Edward, the queen’s eldest son and heir to the throne.
She created a magical spot full of Victorian follies, trees, cacti, and flowers. Again, the sea views are wonderful.
Even shrouded in mist, it was a dramatic place to stroll.
For a treat to accompany your walk, pick up a gelato from Crema e Cioccolato next to the gardens (the pistachio was excellent).
8) See Isola Bella from Above
To see another of Lady Trevelyan’s creations, continue from the end of Villa Comunale down Via Bagnoli Croci to Belvedere di Via Pirandello.
It’s not a particularly pleasant walk next to the road, but it only takes five minutes to reach the viewpoint that overlooks Isola Bella.
Isola Bella is a tiny, rocky island off Mazzarò Beach with a villa and garden created by Lady Trevelyan.
At low tide, you can walk over there (wear water shoes) and the pebble beach opposite is an extremely popular spot in summer.
It’s now a nature reserve and you can visit daily in summer and on weekends and holidays in winter. Check the Isola Bella website for hours. It can close in bad weather. Entrance is €6.
In March, we contented ourselves with the view from above. Even on a rainy day, we could see how clear the sea would be in the sun.
There’s a bar, L’Oblò Cafè, next to the viewpoint with outdoor seating to enjoy the view, but it was closed on our visit.
To reach Mazzarò and Isola Bella you can walk down the steep stairs next to Belvedere di Via Pirandello (20 minutes or so) or take the Funivia (cable car) from near the centre of Taormina.
If the weather had been warmer, I’d have loved to take this White Lotus boat tour to Isola Bella and several caves.
9) Enjoy a Delicious Meal
We found the casual eateries in Taormina more appealing than the formal (and pricey) restaurants. While it is a touristy town, you can still find some excellent food.
Here were our favourite places to eat:
La Bottega del Formaggio
La Bottega del Formaggio is a cheese shop and deli with a dining room in the back where you can sample their products and local wine.
A tagliere (platter of small bites) is our favourite thing to eat in Sicily, and this was the best we had. Our vegetarian version was full of delicious cheeses, vegetables, and hot dishes like the Sicilian classics, caponata and melanzana parmigiana.
We got the medium size, which seemed expensive at €42, but it was plenty of food for two people and well worth it.
Meat and vegan tagliere are also available.
It’s also a good place to try local wines—we loved our Spadafora Syrah.
We had no problems getting in at lunchtime (which they serve until 3.30pm), but in the evenings (or high season), reservations are a good idea.
Rosticceria Da Cristina
Da Cristina is known as having the best arancini (rice balls) in Taormina, and we agree.
This is a great option if you are looking for a quick, casual meal. You can get a takeaway or eat at the limited bar seating inside. The branch near the Duomo (Via Strabone 2) also has a casual restaurant next door, where we ate.
As well as arancini (we chose the melanzana), we enjoyed their melanzana parmigiana. All the melanzana (aubergine/eggplant) in Sicily is great for vegetarians!
They also have pizza slices and other snacks. We got some takeaway slices for our Etna day trip.
The other branch is Da Cristina 2 at Via Giovanni di Giovanni 28 (near Bam Bar).
Pizzeria Villa Zuccaro
Pizzeria Villa Zuccaro is a busy pizzeria where we enjoyed excellent Margherita and Norma (aubergine) pizzas.
In better weather, you can dine under lemon trees in the courtyard.
Taverna Don Nino
Taverna Don Nino is a simple restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. The small food menu includes antipasti, bruschetta, and a few pasta dishes.
It’s ideal for lunch, aperitivo, or a casual dinner without the pressure to have multiple courses.
For lunch, we shared a tomato bruschetta and vegetarian antipasto rustico, which included potato fritatta, greens, and caramelised onion and provola crostone.
It wasn’t as delicious or diverse as the platters at La Bottega del Formaggio, but it was much cheaper at €12 and a good option if you’re on a budget or just want a simpler meal.
Taverna Don Nino also has one of the cheapest Spritzs in town (€4.50).
10) Take a Day Trip to Mt Etna
One of the best day trips from Taormina (and a highlight of our East Sicily itinerary) is to visit Mt Etna, Europe’s tallest and most active volcano.
There are a variety of experiences available from visiting the wineries on its slopes, doing a DIY hike, or heading close to the summit (where you must have a guide).
Rifugio Sapienza is the most common access point to the higher elevations of Etna as you can take a cable car up to 2500 metres (8200 feet) and hike from there.
It’s a 1 hour 15 minutes drive from Taormina. We drove ourselves and met our tour there—we did this Etna Volcano: South Side Guided Summit Hike with Ashara.
There are also tours from Taormina that include transport such as this Etna summit and Alcantara tour with Etna People.
Our tour cost €65 per person, plus on the day you pay €52 each for the cable car (you may need cash for this, but we paid by card).
After taking the cable car, we hiked up to a crater at 2900 metres (9500 feet). Due to eruptions, it hasn’t been possible to get to the summit for years, but it’s still well worth doing.
It was a fairly strenuous climb up (especially in the snow in March!), so I only recommend it if you are fit and an experienced hiker.
The scenery was stunning and our geologist guide gave us lots of interesting information about the volcano. He was also very safety conscious, and we turned back after the weather came in, and we had to hike down in a snowstorm.
It was quite intense, but we enjoyed the adventure!
Overall, our hike was 6.7km (4 miles) with a 496m (1627 feet) elevation gain. It took just over three hours, including plenty of breaks.
The advantage of an off-season visit was a smaller group (nine people) and no long waits for the cable car. In summer, Etna can be very busy.
If you don’t want to hike, you can also book a cable car and 4WD bus combo at Rifugio Sapienza.
I recommend booking an Etna tour for your first full day in Taormina, as they can be cancelled due to weather (ours was). You could also visit Etna from Catania.
11) Head Up to Castelmola
Castelmola is a medieval village even higher up the mountain than Taormina.
It’s worth visiting to wander the quiet lanes, admire the incredible views, and sample the sweet vino alla mandorla (almond wine) at Antico Caffè San Giorgio.
We originally planned to hike to Castelmola (see the 4km return route on Alltrails), but our legs were too sore after Etna. We drove up after checking out of our B&B, but you could also get the bus (although they aren’t very frequent).
We parked in a car park at the edge of the village (€1 an hour cash, but there’s a car park further up that accepts the Easypark app).
How to Get to Taormina
Taormina is in the northeast of Sicily, a large island south of the Italy mainland.
It’s 69km (43 miles) north of Catania International Airport, where we rented a car. The drive took us 1 hour and 15 minutes.
We rented a car because we were on an Eastern Sicily road trip, but you don’t need a car once you are in Taormina.
In fact, parking is expensive. Our B&B Villa Sara had a private garage for €10 a day (a good deal) so our car was easy to access for our Etna day trip.
Some hotels have parking, but otherwise you’ll have to park in one of the parking lots on the edge of town—Porta Catania Parking (closest to town) or Parcheggio Lumbi (a bit further, but it has a shuttle).
If you don’t want to drive, the easiest way to get to Taormina from Catania Airport is the Etna Trasporti bus (1.5 hours).
There’s also a train station down the hill called Taormina-Giardini. From there, you can take a bus or taxi to the centre of Taormina (10-15 minutes). Use Trenitalia to search for train times.
Taormina Map
Is Taormina Worth Visiting?
Taormina is well worth visiting, especially outside the peak summer months when it gets very busy.
We loved the stunning views of Mt Etna and the sea from almost everywhere in town, and the fascinating Greek Theatre exceeded our expectations.
Despite being a touristy town, we found some delicious food at the more casual spots.
Taormina isn’t large, but there’s enough to do to keep you busy for three days or so (especially if you like to hike or want to visit the beach). I think it warrants more than the day that most people give it.
Even in the rain, we loved Taormina!
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