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Hong Kong Island may be the centre for business and Kowloon the tourist hub (with that skyline view) but for us the beating heart of Hong Kong was Mong Kok, further up the Kowloon peninsular. It’s a densely packed area of gritty tenement buildings, bustling markets, hotels rented by the hour and Chinese medicine pharmacies alongside spangly electronics shops selling the latest gear. It’s a place where Hong Kongers live, work and shop. The crowds are intense, the traffic frenetic, but it feels alive and vibrant.
Central has gleaming skyscrapers but Mong Kok has towering tenements. These decaying apartment buildings house families in cramped homes, with washing hanging from the windows. They shouldn’t be attractive, but somehow I found them to be.
We stayed in one of the tenement buildings, riding up to the 14th floor with the building’s residents. As the doors opened on the way up we were always surprised by what we saw: a cafe, a gym, another hostel amongst all of these apartments. On our floor we’d walk past washing hanging in the corridors with the fragrant smell of incense from the offerings placed on the floor.
Looking down from the 14th Floor…
Heading out into the streets it’s all about the shopping, including many markets. In the Prince Edward area each street or market has its own specialty. One street focuses on goldfish with bags of them hanging outside the shops.
Then there’s the sweet-smelling Flower Market with stalls and stalls selling colourful flowers and plants.
Just opposite, Chinese men come to show off their feathered friends at the Bird Market. There are plenty of birds for sale but many guys are just taking theirs for an outing. They stand in groups cooling themselves with traditional Chinese fans, holding their birds on display in tiny cages. We saw live locusts for sale in bags, and wondered that we were in the same city as the jewellery stores and Harvey Nichols of Hong Kong Island.
Our favourite street is Sai Yeung Choi Street, a pedestrianised area lined with electronic shops and an abundance of low slung signs almost reaching from one side to the other. On a Sunday afternoon as we made our way for a refreshing dessert at Hui Lau Shan the crowds, as always, were massive.
Strange but tasty mango based desserts and drinks available at Hui Lau Shan, one of the many dessert restaurants open late into the night.
Of course, we couldn’t resist a look in the electronics shops. A Macbook Air at US prices (much less than the UK) was very tempting…
Mong Kok comes into its own at night. This is when the masses descend and the streets throb with energy. Crossing the road can be tricky…
The Ladies Market opens for business where you can find cheap clothes and souvenirs. Don’t forget to bargain.
The streets are full of the potent smells of fried food stalls and interesting things going on, like this armless man painting scrolls with his teeth.
We resisted the meaty food stalls but enjoyed a bowl of century egg congee (rice porridge) in a local eatery.
What I loved most about nights in Mong Kok were the neon lights. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many crammed into one street.
It may not be polished, elegant or easy but for us Mong Kok was the crazy heart of Hong Kong.
Chinese Culture is probably on of the oldest in the world…
great photo essay this has been a great help for planning my trip to mong kok / hong kong.
Thanks Joshua – let us know if you have any questions.
Terrific photos. They really capture the craziness of Hong Kong – I love it, and could very easily live there, I think!
Thanks Megan. We’d love to spend a few months there but not sure we could afford accommodation.
I so love this city. We are heading back in early January – would you recommend the place you stayed in? I’m looking for a hostel in that area and want to avoid Chunking Mansions if possible, and a tenement experience is perfect. We find them strangely attractive and took endless photos of them. Thanks and enjoy Japan, we are in Tokyo in two weeks and I’m boiling over with excitement.
We do recommend the hostel as long as you don’t mind seriously tiny rooms and a wet room shower. It was very clean though, had wifi, hot decent shower and great location a few minutes from the MTR. http://www-2.ahshanhostel.com/
Enjoy Tokyo! We might be there at the same time as you.
Fantastic review on Mongkok. You’ve made me wanna go back to Hong Kong. Mongkok is a really vibrant area. Wondering if you did try one of the Fortune Tellers? That would make another interesting article. Anyway, really enjoy your photos!
Thanks Amer. We didn’t make it to a fortune teller but you are right – that would make an interesting post!
That looks amazing! I’d love to check it out. It was also really cool to hear a first-hand account of what the tenements are like.
It was fun staying in a tenement building rather than a soulless hotel, even if our room was tiny.
Your photos convey total sensory overload – colour, lights, movement, noise, smells – an all encompassing sense of manic hustle and bustle… apart from the bowl of calming, and quietly comforting rice porridge – a plain, pale and simple interlude :)
I love that description Linda – thanks!
what a great photo essay of Hong Kong. almost a sea of humanity. thanks for sharing.
There are an incredible number of people on the streets at night.
It´s one of my favourites pars of the city, day time but even better during night time. All the atmosphere of people, shops, buildinings… maybe some people is kind of crazy being kind of packed in peak hours but there´s lot to discover around.
I agree – the night time is best of all. Such a great atmosphere and the crowds don’t really feel oppressive.
When I left Vancouver (my birthcity) years ago, I didn’t think I’d miss congee (jeouk), but how I do now – your photo of the glorious congee doesn’t help either. ;) Thanks for the great article on a part of Hong Kong with which I’m not very familiar. I plan to spend most of next June in Hong Kong with a big chunk of time between Quarry Bay and Tai Koo.
We were glad to discover congee. I must admit rice porridge didn’t sound that great but our British-Chinese friend insisted we try it. She was right.
Great article guys! I really got a sense of the vibrant area. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Kristin.
I agree Kristin, this post really makes Mong Kok feel vibrant and alive. Thanks!
I’m glad we were able to capture that. Thanks Jordan.